Road to Recovery and Charters Towers

It took Team Turtle two days to recover from their massive walk through Undara Volcanic National Park, but that was OK as it was so very much worth it.  Would we punish our bodies like that again, well, at that point in time no, but.....

So, off we went again - this time in a south easterly direction towards Charters Towers, a very old gold mining town 100 klms west of Townsville.  Took our time getting there with an overnight stay at Greenvale the home of the Three Rivers Hotel. Slim Dusty had a big hit with a song of the same name and I had been under the impression that it was imaginary (as most song titles are) but there is an actual hotel and a very nice one at that.

Next stop, Charters Towers.  Not quite in town itself but at a very nice camp spot about 20klms east of town on the might Burdekin River.  A reasonably busy place but Team Turtle managed to find another good spot overlooking the river - not on the edge of the river (the grass was too high and the banks too steep) but it was still a nice outlook. 

Burdekin River Road Bridge

Fortunately for us, it hadn't rained for a while as the area where we were camped as been under water on numerous occasions over the years.  It as been that often that the local council has even installed a height indicator on the opposite bank - now that is an awful lot of water!

The Flood Height Indicator

As no members of Team Turtle had ever been to the area before, we set off the next morning for the usual sightseeing, touristy thing as well as some much needed shopping.

There is an actual hill (or Tor) at Charters Towers and it was where gold was first discovered.  The hill is littered with old gold mineshafts as well as munition bunkers from the Second World War.

Charters Towers

Looking East From The Hill

 There are some lovely old buildings in the township itself - reminders from the heydays of the gold rush period when the population was rather excessive.

The next day we went in the opposite direction to a little town called Ravenswood - another old gold mining town.  All of the information that we had collected had good things to say about this place - well, this was a very good example of the truth being stretched just a little bit.  There were some nice buildings but they were so dusty, two hotels which are still in the same condition as when the gold rush was on, a non-existent information centre and a very large open cut gold mine just on the edge of town.

The Open Cut Gold Mine

Within A Stone's Throw Of Town

After a nice lunch in one of the pubs, we drove a couple of klms out of town to a geological formation called The White Blow.  Quite interesting as it looked just like a heap of rubble, not the solid piece of quartz that it is!

The Sign Says It All

The White Blow

From The Top

That was enough of old towns but it was a pleasant day for a drive!  The next few days were just for relaxing and for a little bit of maintenance on the vehicles.

The Old and The New Railway Bridges Over The Burdekin

The Captain Relaxing!

Before long it was time to move on - still working our way south and about to tick off another item on the "Bucket List".

Undara Volcanic National Park

The first item for The Deckie to cross off her "bucket list" was a visit to the Undara Volcanic National Park to see, first hand, the amazing lava tubes.

Even though Undara is a National Park, tourists are unable to go through the caves and tubes unless they are on an organised tour.  Not a problem as we had organised ourselves on one through the caravan park at Mt Surprise.  The tour took in a walk up and around the Kalkani Crater, morning tea, two caves/tubes, three course lunch at the resort just outside the National Park, some more caves/tubes, afternoon tea and then back to Mt Surprise - 40 klms away.  Wow, just exhausted by reading through that list!!

It was to be an early start - 0800hrs - but as it was something that we were both looking forward to, it was not too difficult to be 'up and at 'em' just as the sun rose.  A small group of nine people boarded the mini bus and we were off into the sunrise.

First stop - Kalkani Crater.  A leisurely walk up the side of the extinct volcano and then around its rim.  The guide was very informative and managed to find something of interest in the dozen spots that we stopped at going up and around - this also coincided with most of the group being able to catch their breath.  The view was wonderful but the wind on the day was very cold and very strong.

Kalkani Crater

The Gentle Start to the Walk

Off Into The Distance

After our brisk walk around the crater rim, it was coffee time with homemade slices and biscuits - just what we needed to boost our energy levels for further exploring.

Our next stop was the Wind Tunnel Complex.  There were two sections of this part of the lava tube that had collapsed.  The patterns on the roof and ceilings have been formed from different minerals seeping through the ground - even to a whale being captured in time!

An Entrance and Patterns

Into The Bowels Of The Earth

A Whale Of A Time!

Next stop - the Undara Resort for lunch.  Three courses - Vegetable soup, cold meats, salads and cheese platters and then cake for desert.  More coffee and/or tea and then we were back on the bus.

Off to the other side of the park to Barkers Cave.  Part of the roof of this one is still in place while other sections have collapsed around it.  One has to wonder about what sort of minerals and the consistency of this part that made it so resistant to the ravages of time, wind and water whilst the other sections have collapsed.

The Entrance to Barker's Cave

The cave itself was very eerie but the vegetation that has grown in parts of the cave has given it another outlook.

Looking To The Heavens

Where's There's a Will.......

At this stage, we all clambered back into the bus instead of our usual sprightly leaps.  The guide felt it best to have afternoon tea, a decision that was met with a rousing cheer from all assembled.  A small drive along some bush tracks and we were at another little shady spot.  Some of us had just enough strength in us to climb the final mountain for the day.  This little lookout gave us uninterrupted views of the entire National Park and a very nice way to finish off an interesting, but exhausting day.

Barker's Knob

Overlooking Undara Volcano

We were tired and exhausted by the time we had returned to camp, but it had been a wonderful day so it was well worth it.

The next day was one of pure relaxation before the next part of our travels.

Surprising Mt Surprise

What a good decision it was to leave the Atherton Tablelands!  The warmth that greeted us as we made it back to sea level was most welcome - particularly after the previous couple of days.

Team Turtle was making its way south west to enable The Deckie to cross off one of the items on her "bucket list".  More on that later!

The perfect base for The Team for a few days was Mt Surprise and the Bedrock Village Caravan Park.  Bedrock Village was a very appropriate name for the Park.  The weather was perfect and after we set up camp and refreshed ourselves, The Captain and The Deckie went for a stroll to a nearby creek.  Easier said than done as the surrounding area was littered with boulders and rocks that have lain there for many millions of years.  Fortunately, a path had been whipper snipped through the rocks so that unsuspecting tourists would not get lost on the short walk.  

The Pathway

Boulders, Boulders Everywhere!

The trudge through the old lave flows was worth it as the creek was very pretty and any other day, we would have gone for a bit of a dip - it was warm, but not that warm.

Elizabeth Creek

The following day was a general touristy day - west along the Gulf Development Road to Georgetown, south to Forsayth and then west to Einasleigh.  The Captain had heard of another dam that was south of Einasleigh so thought that we would check out that road (yes, another one) to see as to its suitability for The Turtle whilst we were in the area.

The information Centre at Georgetown is also home to the Ted Elliott Mineral Collection.  For anyone who has any sort of an interest in rocks and minerals it is an absolutely brilliant place.  Most of the collection has been sourced from within Australia with a few samples from overseas.  We spent nearly an hour in the Centre and would have spent more time except the old legs were getting a little it weary so we turned south to find somewhere for lunch.  Forsayth is the "gateway" to Cobbold Gorge - which wasn't on our list of things to do - so we had lunch and turned west to Einasleigh.

Now, Einasleigh is a rather small little village but the rather interesting Copperfield River runs through the Copperfield Gorge right across the road from the local pub.  Once more, it is a basalt plain that surrounds the town but from a totally different volcano that made the basalt plains around Mt Surprise, only 100klms away.  Over time, the waters of the Copperfield River have cut through three different basalt layers to form the Gorge.

The Einasleigh Pub From The River

The Copperfield River and Gorge

A Billabong On The Basalt Plain

After making enquiries (and having a small refreshment) at the hotel regarding the Kidston Dam, we sallied forth once more.  The road was gravel but good to drive on and within a short period of time, we reached the "township"of Kidston.  There were no significant signs to the dam but plenty of side roads.  We turned this way and that way and always came to locked gates - some of them lead to an open cut mine and another was on private property - "Do Not Enter Or You Will Be Shot" was a significant clue as to why we should not go any further.  As the sun was very quickly sinking behind the massive hills of mine overburden we decided to call it a day and head back to camp.  Unfortunately, by the time we had just passed Einasleigh, a little light indicated that The Rav's fuel supply was rather depleted.  There were 50klms of badly corrugated gravel road to the main highway and then another 40 to Mt Surprise - probably not going to back it home, hmm, perhaps we should have put some more fuel in The Rav back at Einasleigh?  No worries, assured The Captain, we have some fuel in Tuf Tinnie's fuel container (which was sitting in the back of The Rav).  After a few more k's, there was an audible "oops" from The Captain - The Deckie does not like it when she hears that - we don't have a funnel!  Not to worry, The Deckie had an empty drink bottle in the car and was able convert it into a most suitable funnel.  Thank goodness for the small pair of scissors that she always carries in her handbag!!

Before darkness enveloped us, we managed to refuel The Rav sufficiently to get us back to Mt Surprise.  

There are many reasons why Team Turtle does not like to be on the roads at sunset or in the dark and two of those reasons nearly happened to us on the final stretch of that gravel road.  Just after Team Turtle continued its journey, a large bird of prey decided to try and lift off in front of us.  The poor bird flapped its wings that hard we thought that it was going to have a heart attack, The Captain felt it best to decelerate (which was the best thing to do at the time) and waited until the bird finally took a right turn - away from the road - and headed into the trees.  It was close as we nearly had the thing sitting on our bonnet!

A little further along the road, there was a small white flash from the starboard side bushes and then - THUMP - a rabbit had committed suicide under The Rav.  The Captain's comment - "at least it wasn't a 'roo' - that would have been a bit messy".  The positive thing - the bird that was having a heart attack a few minutes earlier would not have had to go to far to get his dinner.

Back at camp, we had to prepare ourselves for an early start the next day - and to tick off one of those "bucket list" items.

 

Out Of The Tablelands

Some weeks ago we were at Walkamin enjoying the good life.  Well, it may seemed like we were enjoying the good life far too much and disappeared off the radar screen.   It wasn't as bad as that - just waiting for some quiet time to tell you about our travels and when we did get that quiet time we were staying in a part of sunny Queensland where the mobile phone and internet service was rather intermittent.  But, things are now back on track...

Team Turtle's first stop on the slow trek back south was a little place called Herberton - about 30klms south of Atherton.  There was a lot of mining in the area during the 19th Century - tin and gold, but the town's major attraction is the Herberton Historic Village - a vast, private collection of lots of old things.  Apparently, the Village's original owner liked to collect lots of things - old machinery, old vehicles, buildings - and eventually decided that he should start this place up where other people could enjoy his "hobby".  There is hope for The Deckie yet - maybe, one day, she could start up a second hand bookshop?

Anyway, back to the Village.  A thoroughly pleasant afternoon and an easy walk around the buildings.  The Deckie should have had a voice recorder with her as there were quite a few things that were on display that reminded her of things from her childhood!

Our next stop was Ravenshoe (Ravens-hoe not Raven-shoe).  This was going to be a base for a couple for a couple of short trips - the main one being to Lake Koombooloomba just to see if the road was suitable for The Turtle.  First little side trip was to Millstream Falls in the Millstream Falls National Park, apparently the widest, single drop waterfall in Australia.  A beautiful walk down to the Falls made even more pleasant by a paved walkway.

Millstream Falls

And Again

A little bit closer to town was Little Millstream Falls

Little Millstream Falls

The area must be absolutely spectacular in the wet season and very, very damp!

Later that day, the precipitation began.  It couldn't be called rain as it was just very fine moisture, laden fog and very, very cold.  The heater was even brought out of hibernation!

We had heard mixed reports about the condition of the road to Koombooloomba Dam even when it is dry so we felt that we had to make up our own minds and go.  The Thermos was made, The Rav was fueled up and we headed off into the wilds of Ravenshoe.  Team Turtle made it as far as the Tully Falls Lookout - which left us about 20 klms of unsealed road to travel to the dam - when we decided to have a quick look and a cup of coffee.  As the cold mist enveloped us and there had been predictions of the bad weather continuing, Team Turtle felt it prudent not to travel any further but return to the warmth of The Turtle.

Tully Gorge Lookout

The weather remained miserable so Team Turtle forgot about a fishing trip to Koombooloomba and headed off the Tablelands to explore further into heart of Queensland.

Walking About Walkamin

After spending last weekend very quietly on the banks of Lake Tinaroo (so that The Deckie could recover from her recent ailments) Team Turtle took to the roads, once more, early in the week.

The plan was to spend a few days with some people that we had met last Christmas/New Year down at Coffs Harbour.  One of the couples nearly always spends the winter at a little place called Walkamin - halfway between Atherton and Mareeba while  the other couple had never been in this area before, but have become quite ensconced in the laid-back lifestyle!  We were fortunate enough to find a small window of opportunity (and a vacant site) at the Caravan Park so after morning tea on Tuesday we hauled ourselves all the way from Tinaroo to Walkamin and were set up by lunchtime!  Negatives - there was no water (river or lake) and heaps of caravans and motor homes.  Positives - the ground is nice and flat so that there isn't that very big first step as we climb into The Turtle!

Our first touristy day was Wednesday.  Just a few k's up the road towards Mareeba is The Granite Gorge so, as ones who enjoy rocks and the like, that was where we headed to.

Feeling very energetic, The Captain and The Deckie donned their walking boots and hats and headed into the wilds.  Well, it was along a very well marked trail and we had a map so it wasn't too bad for a two klm walk.

The Smooth Start

The locals were very cute but woe betide if you didn't have any food for them - they will turn their backs on you!

Ignoring The Captain

After a nice smooth start to the walk and finding some interesting rock formations, our pleasant day disintegrated into a scramble under and over boulders and even negotiating a very narrow path at the side of a large boulder.  If you missed your footing you would end up falling into a stagnant pool of water or even worse - breaking bones!!  Fortunately, at that point, there were some very well placed hand holds - like the ones you find at those indoor climbing places.

The Squatting Chipmunk

Part Of Our Path

We eventually made it to the halfway point, stopped for some well deserved refreshments and then made our way back.  Would have been better if they could have organised for it to be a circuit walk - the thoughts of what we had climbed over on the way there made us want to get the chopper in for a lift home!

The Balancing Rocks

The Way Home

And we took notice of the signs that say - "Take nothing nothing but photos and leave nothing but footprints" and left our footprints!

Our Footprints - Set In Stone

The hot showers that night were very welcome!

Our next touristy day did not dawn clear and bright and sunny but we still headed out for some more sightseeing and the rule was that there was not going to be any mountain climbing!

Our main area for the day was Yungaburra - just to the east of Atherton and around the other side of Lake Tinaroo.  First stop was the Curtain Fig Tree - well, it was, originally, two trees as well as the strangler fig, but through time it has become entwined as one.

The Deckie At The Curtain Fig Tree

The next stop was the Avenue of Honour at Tinaburra.   This was an initiative of a local couple who felt that the fallen members of our Defence Forces from the fighting in Afghanistan should have their own memorial.  Only recently dedicated and opened, it is a beautiful place.  There was even a memorial for the Explosive Detector Dogs.  The sculptures were also very befitting the Avenue and were depictions of seagulls flying high.

The Avenue of Honour

The Main Memorial Area

The Explosive Detector Dogs Memorial

Flame trees have been planted on either side of the Avenue and even though they are still very small, they will be magnificent in a few years time.

At this stage it started raining (again) so it was back into The Rav and we headed off to Lake Barrine.  Lake Barrine and the nearby Lake Eacham are classed as crater lakes - not old volcanoes but were formed from volcanic activity.  We had heard good things about the Tea Rooms at Lake Barrine so thought that they would be an adequate place for lunch.  Hmmm, well, the best part of what we were able to see were the magnificent twin Kauri Pines on the foreshore of the Lake.  These trees are estimated to be over 1,000 years old, they are 45metres tall and have a girth of 6 metres.

The Lower Trunks

Looking Into The Light

Back into The Rav and onto Lake Eacham.  This lake has been developed quite nicely by National Parks and has picnic areas, proper boardwalks around the perimeter of the lake as well as defined swimming areas.  Such a bonus for the locals as a swimming hole - crystal clear water and no big bities!

Lake Eacham

Time to go home.  Unfortunately, when we eventually got to an important intersection The Deckie/Navigator made the wrong decisions.  Well, she did have a choice of two - right or left - and made The Captain/Driver turn left instead of right.  Oh well!  As it happened, it was a reasonably good decision as we were a) on a new road and b) we drove through Malanda which has a rather impressive waterfall flowing under the main street just near the township.  The local council has made this little waterway into a well formed swimming pool with just a little bit of foresight!

Malanda Falls -Towards The Road Bridge

Malanda Falls - From The Road Bridge

After Malanda, we eventually made it home without too many more decisions to be made.

The last few days have been quiet - catching up with neighbours and happy hours - those sort of demanding things.  Its just a lifestyle that takes ages to get used to!